mmcp-19-gerstner

commit 15ad16c5a256b66892ea3ea60afe002b097a492e
parent 043c7e17fe45b0306c2e08053ee7334910ac9030
Author: Ivan Gankevich <igankevich@ya.ru>
Date:   Thu, 18 Jul 2019 21:54:10 +0300

Translate introduction.

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main.tex
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diff --git a/main.tex b/main.tex
@@ -57,6 +57,26 @@ that uses added masses.
 
 \section{Introduction}
 
+Ship and sea wavy surface motion do not have an abundance of geometric forms
+and physical phenomena. Waves formation due to ship motion and interaction
+between ocean and atmosphere are governed by continuity condition for heavy
+fluid and the law of conservation of energy: wind waves have uniform energy
+distribution.
+
+Strict theoretical solution (and in fact the only solution) for large-amplitude
+wind waves on the surface of heavy fluid was obtained in 1802 by Franz Josef
+von Gerstner~--- a professor from a university in Prague~\cite{gerstner1809}.
+Generic trochoidal wave mathematical model has high
+dispersion~\cite{sommerfeld1945mechanik}, the dependence of the speed of wave
+crest propagation on their length and period. As a result
+\begin{itemize}
+	\item wave energy propagation speed becomes half the visible phase velocity
+		of wave crests,
+	\item wave front constantly changes its phase, and
+	\item wave are quantised into packets and wave transformation
+		and propagation phenomena become nonstationary.
+\end{itemize}
+
 \section{Computational model of intense sea waves}
 
 \begin{figure}