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1 \documentclass{webofc} 2 3 \usepackage[varg]{txfonts} 4 \usepackage{wrapfig} 5 6 \begin{document} 7 8 \title{Computational Model of Unsteady Hydromechanics\\of Large Amplitude Gerstner Waves} 9 %\subtitle{Do you have a subtitle?\\ If so, write it here} 10 11 \author{% 12 \firstname{Alexander} \lastname{Degtyarev}\inst{1}% 13 \and% 14 \firstname{Ivan} \lastname{Gankevich}\inst{1}% 15 \fnsep\thanks{\email{i.gankevich@spbu.ru}}% 16 \and% 17 \firstname{Nataliia} \lastname{Kulabukhova}\inst{1}% 18 \and% 19 \firstname{Vasily} \lastname{Khramushin}\inst{1,2}% 20 } 21 22 \institute{% 23 Saint Petersburg State University, Universitetskaya 24 Emb. 7-9, 199034 St.~Petersburg, Russia% 25 \and% 26 Alexey Krylov All-Russian Scientific Shipbuilder Society, %with headquarters in 27 Saint Petersburg, % Scientific Society of Shipbuilders named after Alexey Krylov, 28 Russia% 29 } 30 31 \abstract{% 32 The computational experiments in the ship fluid mechanics involve the 33 non-stationary interaction of a ship hull with wave surfaces that include the 34 formation of vortices, surfaces of jet discontinuities, and discontinuities in 35 the fluid under the influence of negative pressure. These physical phenomena 36 occur not only near the ship hull, but also at a distance where the waves break 37 as a result of the interference of the sea waves with waves reflected from the 38 hull. In the study reported here we simulate the wave breaking and reflection 39 near the ship hull. The problem reduces to determining the wave kinematics on 40 the moving boundary of a ship hull and the free boundary of the computational 41 domain. We build a grid of large particles having the form of a parallelepiped 42 and, in the wave equation instead of the velocity field we integrate streams of 43 fluid represented by functions as smooth as the wave surface elevation field. 44 We assume that within the boundaries of the computational domain the waves do 45 not disperse, i.e.~their length and period stay the same. Under this 46 assumption, we simulate trochoidal Gerstner waves of a particular period. 47 This approach allows to simulate the wave breaking and reflection near the ship 48 hull. The goal of the research is to develop a new method of taking the wave 49 reflection into account in the ship motion simulations as an alternative to the 50 classic method which uses added masses.} 51 52 \maketitle 53 54 55 \section{Introduction} 56 57 The ship and sea wave surface motions do not involve an abundance of geometric 58 forms and physical phenomena. The formation of waves due to the ship motion and 59 the interaction between the ocean and the atmosphere are governed only by the 60 continuity condition for a heavy fluid and the law of conservation of the 61 energy. 62 63 A strict theoretical solution (and in fact the only solution) for 64 large-amplitude wind waves at the surface of a heavy fluid was obtained in 1802 65 by Franz Josef von Gerstner~\cite{gerstner1809}. The generic trochoidal wave 66 mathematical model has large dispersion~\cite{sommerfeld1945mechanik}, the 67 speed of the wave propagation depends on their length and period. As a result 68 \begin{itemize}\addtolength\itemsep{-1mm} 69 \item wave energy propagation speed becomes half the visible phase velocity 70 of the wave crests, 71 \item wave front constantly changes its phase, and 72 \item waves are quantised into packets and the phenomena of wave 73 transformation and propagation become nonstationary. 74 \end{itemize} 75 76 77 \section{Computational model of intense sea waves} 78 79 \begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.5\textwidth} 80 \centering 81 \includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{graphics/01-gerstner.png} 82 \includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{graphics/02-gerstner.png} 83 \caption{(Color online) Analytic solutions: progressive Gerstner wave (top), 84 a wave of critical height, as a standing wave (bottom).\label{fig-gerstner}} 85 \end{wrapfigure} 86 87 The Gerstner wave (Fig.~\ref{fig-gerstner}) is a cycloid with the radius 88 $r_W=1.134\lambda_Wh_W/4\pi$ of the particle trajectory being fixed relative to 89 the flat wave surface level \(z_W\), hence \(z\)-coordinates of the crest and 90 trough are the same. Here \(\lambda_W\) is the wave length, \(h_W\) is the 91 relative wave height defined on the interval \([0,1]\) with \(h_W=1\) being the 92 maximum wave height for which the crest does not break 93 (Fig.~\ref{fig-gerstner}). The vertical displacement of a fluid particle is 94 given by 95 96 \begin{equation*} 97 \zeta_Z = r_W \cos x_W \exp\left(-2\pi z_W / \lambda_W\right). 98 \end{equation*} 99 The horizontal displacement of the same fluid particle with respect to its 100 initial position for progressive wave is given by an analogous equation, but 101 with a shift by one fourth of the phase: 102 \begin{equation*} 103 \zeta_X = -r_W \sin x_W \exp\left(-2\pi z_W / \lambda_W\right). 104 \end{equation*} 105 The critical wave height of the Gerstner waves (Fig.~\ref{fig-gerstner}) gives 106 the correct ratio of the wave height to the wave length, but 60 degree slope 107 limit for standing wave with steepness \(\approx{}1/4\) as well as 30 degree 108 slope limit for progressive (traveling) wave with steepness \(\approx{}1/7\) 109 are not correctly captured by the model. 110 111 \begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.5\textwidth} 112 \centering 113 \includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{graphics/03-wind-wave.png} 114 \includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{graphics/05-wind-wave.png} 115 \caption{(Color online) Simulation result: regular trochoidal waves with vertical 116 displacement of sea level and wind stress on the wave sea 117 surface. Propagating wind waves (top), extremely high wind waves 118 (bottom).\label{fig-trochoidal}} 119 \end{wrapfigure} 120 121 The main focus of state of the art mathematical and computational models that 122 simulate wave groups is on stochastic properties rather than fluid 123 mechanics~\cite{anastopoulos2016}. Our model is a modified version of the 124 Gerstner wave which includes wave groups. They are described as a dependency 125 between fluid particle trajectory radius and instantaneous displacement of the 126 particle with respect to the calm sea level (Fig.~\ref{fig-trochoidal}). 127 128 We write the adjusted radius as \(R^A_W={}K^A{}r_W\left(\cos{}x_W-1\right)\), where 129 \(K^A\in[1,\sqrt{2}]\) is the radius coefficient that makes the wave crests cnoidal 130 and raises the mean sea level. We choose \(K^A\) to be slightly less than 1 to 131 reduce the effect of gusty winds on the wave form and to prevent the formation 132 of cycloidal loops in the wave crests, that appear for waves with overly large 133 amplitude, which may occur as a result of the interference with waves 134 heading from the opposite direction. 135 136 The pressure on the windward slope of the wave is smaller, because the wind 137 slides on the surface of the wave at a high speed makes the slope flatter, 138 while on the leeward slope of the wave the wind speed drops significantly or 139 even comes to nought and creates vorticity. 140 141 The coefficient of wind stress \(K^W\) (the parameter that was shifted by one 142 fourth of the phase) determines the asymmetry of steepness of windward and 143 leeward slopes of the wave (Fig.~\ref{fig-trochoidal}): 144 \(R^W_W=K^Wr_W\left(\sin{}x_W-1\right)\), where \(K^W\in[0,1]\). The 145 coefficient is close to unity for fresh wind waves and close to nought for 146 swell. For a two-dimensional sea surface, \(K^W\) is used in dot product 147 between the wind and wave direction vectors: 148 \begin{equation*} 149 \begin{aligned} 150 \zeta_Z &= r_W \cos x_W \exp\left( 151 2\pi \left[ 152 -z_W + r_W K^A \left( \cos x_W - 1\right) + r_W K^W\sin x_W 153 \right] / \lambda_W 154 \right) \\ 155 \zeta_X &= -r_W \sin x_W \exp\left( 156 2\pi \left[ 157 -z_W + r_W K^A \left( \cos x_W - 1\right) + r_W K^W\sin x_W 158 \right] / \lambda_W 159 \right). 160 \end{aligned} 161 \end{equation*} 162 163 The energy conservation is defined by the Bernoulli's principle: 164 \(\rho V^2/2+\rho g \zeta_W=\text{const}\), 165 where the particle velocity \(V\) brings the largest contribution to balancing 166 the pressure \(\rho{}g\zeta_W\) on the wave surface down to nought for breaking 167 waves. 168 169 \section{Trochoidal wave groups} 170 171 \begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.5\textwidth} 172 \centering 173 \includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{graphics/06-group-wave.png} 174 \caption{(Color online) Trochoidal wave groups. 175 \label{fig-group}} 176 \end{wrapfigure} 177 178 In our modified model we simulate two wave surfaces simultaneously: one for 179 regular waves with normal length and one for waves with nine times higher 180 length, that propagate under the same laws but with half speed 181 (Fig.~\ref{fig-group}). The product of these surfaces allows to simulate wave 182 groups. 183 184 On the first entry the profile of the long wave is given by a specific 185 smoothing function the form of which is close to the phase wave profile. This 186 function defines continuous changes of the wave front phase which is needed to 187 simulate waves produced by the ship. 188 189 \begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.6\textwidth} 190 \centering 191 \includegraphics[width=0.6\textwidth]{graphics/waves-01.png} 192 \caption{(Color online) Large-amplitude trochoidal waves. 193 \label{fig-waves-1}} 194 \end{wrapfigure} 195 196 There is also a simpler approach to simulate wave groups: a superposition of 197 regular waves with slightly different periods propagating in opposite 198 directions. The interference of waves of comparable lengths produces beats, in 199 which the ninth wave has double height and is standing wave. This approach 200 generally gives satisfactory wave surfaces, but does not work for waves 201 produced by the ship, because these have intricate wave fronts. 202 203 204 \section{Direct numerical simulation of sea waves} 205 206 We use an explicit numerical scheme to simulate a sea wave surface that 207 satisfies the continuity equation; we call it direct numerical simulation 208 (Fig.~\ref{fig-waves-1}). We use the following definitions for three sea wave 209 systems, that are used in the scheme. 210 %\vspace{-0.5\baselineskip} 211 \begin{itemize} \addtolength\itemsep{-1mm} 212 \item Fresh wind waves have a period of 6--8 seconds near the shore and up 213 to 10--12 seconds in the open ocean. The height of the wave is close to 214 critical, that typically corresponds to 6 on the Beaufort scale with 215 wave crests larger than 5--6 metres. 216 217 \item Fresh swell waves skew from mean wind direction by \(\approx{}30\) 218 degrees. When the storm in northern hemisphere increases, wind 219 direction goes counterclockwise and vice versa, i.e. the swell is 220 always present in the ocean. Swell waves are comparable to wind waves: 221 their height is two times smaller than the critical wave height, and 222 their length is 1.5--2 times larger. 223 224 \item Old swell waves are long waves that come from higher latitudes. Their 225 height is two times smaller than than of the wind waves and fresh 226 swell, their length is two times larger, and their direction is close 227 to meridional (i.e.~south in northern latitudes and vice 228 versa\footnote{The wind blows into the compass rose, the waves 229 propagate in the direction of the rose.}). 230 231 \end{itemize} 232 233 \begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.55\textwidth} 234 \centering 235 \includegraphics[width=0.55\textwidth]{graphics/07-exp-1.png} 236 \caption{(Color online) In the course of the simulation we visualise all three 237 wave systems and create a view of ship hull dynamics 238 and sea wave profiles in a different convenient scale. 239 \label{fig-waves-2}} 240 \end{wrapfigure} 241 242 These waves may add up in unfavourable way to a wave with the height of 13--15 243 metres, however, in real world mean wave height will be 8--10 metres. Wave 244 groups have the ninth wave with double height, breaking crest and wave slope larger 245 than 45 degrees. 246 247 Oceanographers use well-estab\-lished solutions~\cite{poplavskii1997} for regular 248 progressive waves of arbitrary shape. Using trochoidal waves as a source, we 249 fix wave periods and speeds in time to satisfy continuity equation and 250 energy conservation law. We simulate all three wave systems (described above) 251 simultaneously and indepedently (Fig.~\ref{fig-waves-2}) and add individual 252 wave surfaces together to produce the resulting wave surface. 253 254 \vspace{-0.5\baselineskip} 255 256 \section{Conclusion} 257 258 We use explicit numerical schemes to simulate a modified version of the 259 Gerstner waves. We simulate particle drift in the upper fluid layers by 260 changing the curvature of the trajectory depending on the instantaneous change 261 of the wave surface elevation. Our model is nonstationary, hence ship motions 262 can also be nonstationary. The computational power of a desktop computer is 263 enough for performing such simulations in real-time, and these types of 264 simulations can even be performed on the board of the ship to chose efficiently 265 the optimal mode of ship operation. 266 267 %\begin{acknowledgement} 268 269 \vspace{-0.5\baselineskip} 270 271 \subsection*{Acknowledgement} 272 273 \vspace{-0.5\baselineskip} 274 275 Research work is supported by Saint Petersburg State University (grant 276 no.~26520170 and~39417213). 277 %\end{acknowledgement} 278 279 \vspace{-0.5\baselineskip} 280 281 \bibliography{refs.bib} 282 283 \end{document}